JG G36 1238 G608-7 RIS Airsoft AEG Rifle
- Velocity: 355 FPS (0.2 g BB) / Range 180-200 Feet
- Barrel Length: 16 inches / 40 cm
- Magazine Capacity: 470 Rounds
- Full Metal RIS System
- Full Metal Gearbox
- Battery and Charger Included (Small)
- Accuracy Proven
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- Made in China
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The JG G36 1238 RIS is your standard G36, with a few new features. First, JG introduces a nicely machined aluminum RIS system. It is both light and strong at the same time. Another feature is the silencer, which gives it an aggressive, yet stealthy appearance. This model features a side folding stock.
This airsoft gun is not to be misrepresented as a real firearm or gun that is manufactured by Heckler & Koch and is merely an airsoft gun that fires 6mm pellets. The manufacturer of this airsoft gun is JG.
Here's a simple guide on how to
disassemble a JG G36C. Assuming that you already have a basic
knowledge on the parts of an AEG and be aware that you will void warranty by doing so.
1. Basically, marked here are the only screws (philips & allen screws) that needs to be removed & nothing else. Remove the foregrip.
After removing all the screws, the first part to be removed is the
'magazine well' assembly. Remove the lockpin that holds the magazine
well, then press the magazine release lever (1), then lift up the
magazine well assembly (2).
3. Remove the Tamiya baby plug connector by pressing its lock from inside the magazine well.
Encircled are the 'bolts' that holds the barrel assembly in place,
remove those & make sure you don't lose its matching 'nuts' on the
other side. Next is for you to pull the barrel assembly outwards to
give way to the gearbox assembly.
While pulling the barrel assembly, take a look inside your magazine
well. Notice that the hopup assembly moves together with the barrel
assembly, exposing & freeing up the air nozzle of your gearbox.
6. Now it's time to take out your gearbox assembly as shown.
7. Here's how the hopup assembly looks like.
Now that the gearbox is already out, take out the retaining pin
(encircled) that holds the gearbox assembly & the grip assembly
9. Using a pointed tool (I used an allen wrench here), push out the retaining pin.
Put your selector lever to 'semi-automatic' position (1), then gently
lift up the gearbox assembly (2) off the grip assembly.
11. This is how the grip assembly looks like.
12. Encircled are the screws that needs to be removed to open the gearbox.
Upon opening the gearbox, I got surprised of how overly lubed this thing was!
See what I mean? Even the trigger is filled with grease!
The next thing I noticed are the gears... 'C.A' brand? Not.
Maybe some releases of the JG G36C has the C.A. gearset... & some
doesn't. But mind you, these non-C.A. gears looks a lot tougher than
the XYT gears.
shimming is also good, but I still advise you to reshim it. The plastic
bushings has a unique feature, it snaps (pops) into place when you put
it in the gearbox. It has some kind of a "crowning" so that it won't
easily fall off, neat!
'Shuang Ba' motor, same brand as the batteries that comes with the gun.
Gives a decent ROF using only 8.4v volts stock batteries. Better than
other stock ACM motors Also the one noticeable here is the selector plate, the contacts are soldered together.
JG G36C air system. I did the air-compression test & the
compression is very good! The cylinder head fits very well (and very
tight) inside the brass cylinder. The air nozzle looks odd, but it
holds very well to the tappet plate.
stock spring... it's pretty stiff, maybe an SP110 equivalent, i'm not
sure. No wonder why this thing has that impressive velocity, 360 FPS
average on a stock setup.
Here are a few other details I noticed while inside the mechbox. The plastic spring guide only had one peg, it was clear the other side had snapped off but I’m not sure whether I did that or whether it came like that. I was not able to find the other side even after I cleaned up my work bench. I tried to installed a Guarder ver 3 metal spring guide only to find out that the slits for the spring guide arms were not thoroughly cut. I had to chisel away at the holes and even then the fit was not as comfortable as I would have liked. It ended up to be a lot more work than I expected so I put the plastic spring guide back in and figure I would deal with this when the stock piece breaks.
Next the mechbox contacts which are usually completed by the selector plate were soldered together. I don’t know why this was done but it works so I guess that’s all that matters.
The problem with the gun turned out to be with the Jing Gong G36C wiring assembly. There was poor contact with the positive wire which runs to the motor and I had to resolder that part. After that was done the JG G36C was as responsive as my TM G36C. It did take about 5 hours of frustrating tweaking to locate the issue but I’m glad I did.
Putting the mecbox back into the body I did a bit more test firing, the trigger issue was gone however the muzzle velocity still varied by 20 fps. As I mentioned earlier, the piston was pushing a lot of the grease into the inner barrel and it needed to be cleaned out badly. After that was done muzzle velocity really tightened up and shots varied between 365-370 fps.
The next big question with the Jing Gong G36C will be its reliability and that is something I cannot answer right now. It will be my friend’s main weapon for the season so I guess I’ll report if any issues arise.
After seeing and taking apart the JG G36C, it is a gun I would recommend to novice players. As a starter kit, it comes with everything you need although I’d probably get a better charger and more magazines when the finances allow. Just make sure you have a gunsmith handy though in case you run into problems like my friend did, yes it should work 100% right out of the box but for the price and what you get, it still seems worth the gamble.
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