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Classic Army G36 Automatic Electric Gun

Classic Army G36 Automatic Electric Gun
$254.99  per EACH
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Item Code: ERA-CA-G36-LONG
Airsoft Guns Styles: G36 Airsoft Rifles
Airsoft Manufacturers: CA (Classic Army)
In Stock: NOT IN STOCK
Model: HK G36C Airsoft AEG Gun

Classic Army G36 Automatic Electric Gun
Specifications:
- Velocity: 350 FPS (0.2 g BB) / Range 160-180 Feet
- Barrel Length: 21 inches / 53 cm
- Magazine Capacity: 470 Rounds
Features:
- Folding Stock!
- Glass Fiber Body
- Battery and Charger Not Included
- Review of Classic Army G36 C AEG
- FREE AI MAGAZINE W/ PURCHASE OF CA AEG (while supplies last)
- Made in Hong Kong

Classic Army G36 Electric Rifle Manual

The Classic Army G36 Long is a very solid replica. It includes the folding stock for easy transport or movement in tight spaces. The integrated sight allows for lightning fast target acquisition. The full length barrel allows for maximum reach and accuracy.

Classic Army G36C AEG Airsoft Electric Gun

Introduction:

This article gives an in-depth review of the Classic Army (CA) G36C Electric Rifle. Classic Army has released longer versions of this rifle, the CA G36K Airsoft Rifle and CA G36 Airsoft Gun. Tokyo Marui, of course, produced the first mainstream production of G36C AEG back in 2002.

Classic Army's new AEG (Automatic Electric Gun) is a replica of the G36C. It is quite impressive how strongly it resemble the Classic Army version. Below is a better look of the spring powered G36C. Click on the pictures in the link below to get a better view:



G36C Features/options:

This portion of the article explains the basics of the G36C rifle. Here, a good look at the functionality of the Classic Army G36C airsoft gun will be delved into by working from the front of the AEG (Automatic Electric Gun) to the back. The following are the basics as well as the parts for this airsoft assault rifle.

As a newest release the G36C is a shortened version of the Classic Army G36 automatic electric rifle model. It has a short hand grip with a handstop underneath which also serves as a front sling point. The G36C is equipped with open sights that is fitted, but it does not have any carry handle. Its foregrip has hard points to both the left and right sides where the aiming devices is fitted. It also comes with prefitted lower rail. In the real world, the unit is intended for use in confined places.

Rifle Markings:

The serial numbers for the Classic Army G36C serials are all the same due to its molding limitations. It has not changed since the first prototype mold therefore it is lacking a unique serial number as well as logos unlike those of M15s.

Rifle Sling Points:

The G36C has four sling points as mentioned. One is located next to the stock hinge on the left hand side, another one is at the rear of the stock. Things are slightly different at the front. There are two fixture points on both sides of the forward hand stop.

Rifle Metal Parts:

The G36C sports a metal subframe that adds to the rigidity, just like the TM G36C design. The metal parts include the front rail and sling points, the muzzle, front barrel, ejection point sights, fire select switch and the internals. Its gearbox is the same as those found in the AK47 Electric Airsoft Rifle. Its motor is mounted in a reinforced metal chassis bolted to the gearbox itself. It is quite strong for a plastic replica.

Rifle Sights:

The CA G36C comes with fitted open sights and both the front and rear sights are made with metal. The front sight is quite the standard style foresight. The rear sight is adjustable and contains a flip-up aiming device with different diameters.

Rifle Rails:

Right out of the box, the Classic Army G36C airsoft rifle comes with fitted lower rail. It fits any aiming devices and accessories to the lower rail especially the recommended forward grip such as an Classic Army R.I.S. Forward Grip. There are two other further rail mounting hard points, but some spare rails come separately. Original factory and many other companies manufacture suitable rails and just about anything made for the TM G36C will fit the CA G36C.

Folding Buttstock:

The buttstock for the G36 rifles is the standard side-folding skeleton and it is the shorter variation for the G36C gun. It folds to the right side and secures against the shell deflector. The good thing about this skeleton buttstock is that when it folds, it does not interfere with the gun's operation.

It is not possible however to fold the stock when the mag well is clipped onto the left since it will obscure things.

There is a series of holes on the underside of the stock. These holes give the CA-G36C shooter something to secure the receiver and foregrip pins with especially when repairing or upgrading the rifle.

The real G36 series are equipped with a bolt catch. This catch automatically holds the bolt in a rearward position when the rifle is cocked , when the magazine is empty, or when the last round is spent. The bolt catch can also be engaged manually by depressing a button located at the front inside of the trigger guard and retracting the cocking handle. When the empty magazine is removed and replaced with a new one, the bolt catch can be released by cocking the gun further back. For the Classic Army G36C, the bolt release is just for decoration purposes and does not do anything.



CA G36C Magazine:

The Classic Army G36C comes with a high-capacity, 470-rounds magazine. As with other CA models, they provide hicap magazines assuming that more G36C shooters use higher capacity mags than low-cap ones. Also, manufacturers figured that selling a gun containing a hicap mag will appeal to AEG buyers.

On each side, attachment fixing can be found. There are two shoelike moldings on one side, and two fitment locations on the other. This simple idea allows the CA G36C user to clip together multiple magazines for easy changeover.

Filling the magazine is easy. First, look for a ribbed section on the rear area at the top, which pivots backward opening a hole where the magazine is filled. The latch cover is tight and secure. This makes it less likely to pop the inside open when webbing, similar to G3 and MP5 series when carried upside down.

There is a winding wheel towards the foot of the magazine. It needs to be turned towards that front to wind up that clockwork mechanism feeding the BBs into the rifle when operated. The magazine for the G-36C assault rifle is filled and the wheel is wound until a loud click is heard indicating that the clockwork mechanism is wound tight.

The magazine for this rifle is made from a transparent plastic so the 0.2g BB pellets can be seen through it. With the mag filled, the transparent nature of the hicap magazines from Classic Army guns is obvious. As shown above, the 0.2g white BBs are visible through the trasparent mag. Compare to the real magazines, the plastic colour for the magazine is about right, although some customers prefer the exact replica. If this is so, the traditional Bioval BBs that are black, green, or tan color is also available, or use lowcap mags with fake rounds. In either case, the performance of this CA G36C gun is not affected.

The CA G36C magazine molding shows a huge improvement in their processes and quality control. It is much better now than that found on the old CA MP5.

As shown in the left image below, the two halves of the mag match up nicely. The edges do not have any excess material and the BB-feed mech works nicely. The loading latch cover is a nice tight fit even though in time it loosens off due to normal wear. This tight fit is the way it should be anyway because if it is too loose, it may fall out of the mag well and break. Although it is unlikely for the mags to unexpectedly drop out while in use with the CA G36C, just make sure it clicks into place when first attaching it.

It is easy to secure the mag into the AEG. Simply align the top of the mag with the mag well and firmly press it upward until it clicks. Try not to slam the device too hard for it may break.

There is no lateral play in the magazine unlike the Classic Army (CA) MP5 series well as the CA M15 to some extent. It really tells how the molds have been made. In this model, obviously, the mags are almost overly secure in this model although things should still remain a nice fit tin the production version.




Build Quality for the Classic Army G36C:

The glass-fiber reinforced material that this AEG is made from looks more like the composites used by Rifles. The material is same in color having no difference in shade. The material definitely looks better with the Classic Army than with any other G36C replicas.

In terms of size and dimensions, G-36C seems less bulky and a bit smaller than the real thing. Classic Army wanted to make a replica similar to that of Tokyo Marui so that the parts can be swappable between the two. The body is built around an inner metal frame. Therefore, there is no creak or flex to the design unlike most other plastic Automatic Electric Guns.

The design has very little play. However, the foregrip is loose and has no battery fitted. For some reason, the foregrip pin fits more securely when inserted from the right than from the left, which can be upto what the molding can tolerate. This is an issue that Classic Army has fixed in the production version.

Most of the body of the Classic Army G36C is moulded into two halves and attached together since this is the way that most of the molding systems work. All of the major parts have molding seams along the center line such as the handguard, folding stock, and the main body. The lines of the foregrip are not perfect, although the quality is comparable to those from TM's, and improvements can always be found on the G36C guns. Remember that Classic Army's version of the G36C is just a low-cost replica and therefore cannot be expected to be the exact copy of the real firearm.

There are 4 hard-point mounting holes in the foregrip. Each side contains two which allows to bolt on the side of the RIS rails. Classic Army has nicely engineered foregrips with more decent materials since the threaded holes are normally points of failure especially with cheaper designs.

Another possible weak point is the wireframe buttstock/hinge which could be snapped. This has been one of the complaints for TM G36C similar to CA's G36C Automatic Electric Gun , but the difference is that the stock for Classic Army is only fibre/plastic made. Therefore, there is limitations on its physical strength. Although the design for the CA G36C model is that it can fold and swing along with the AEG without bending or creaking anything.




Takedown (Disassembly of the G 36):

The takedown of the Classic Army G36C is simple and easy. It may not be necessary to do so but it is good to know in cases of general repairs, lubing, and/or servicing the internals.

First, take the magazine and battery out, and make sure to clear the barrel and hop unit with any rounds. Then, take two Allen keys to remove the chassis. A 2.5mm is needed to unscrew the magwell pin, and a 3mm for the rear bolt. This is due to the TM design. Note that the bolts next to the fire select switch need not to be removed since they are parts of the main body and not the gearbox. Although they will be removed to show the readers what happens.

A straight-through pin bolt holds the mag well. The bolt can be retracted from the opposite side when the nut is undone. The well pivots out of the main body on the front lugs.

Carefully disconnect the power supply located next to the hopup unit, under the mag well hinge area, provided that the middle bolt is removed. The wires are hidden but they are easily spotted. Also make sure that they are not wrapped around anything when they are being disconnected.

Note that the wire loom in the front, as shown in the right image below, look flexible and thick and the wires inside the gearbox are thiner and firmer. Both types of wires carry the same power and amperage, however, even though they serve different purposes. The reason is that the gearbox has space limitations therefore need thinner wires whereas the front wires are more likely to be bent and twisted, hence its thickness.

Carefully swing the gearbox away from the main frame, provided that the last bolt was removed. There is not a lot of room between the hopup unit and the front of the gearbox so try not to apply too much force. At this point it looks like there is not enough room for the gearbox to fit in. However, the inner barrel is sprung against the front of the rifle and therefore as the gearbox is swung out of the main frame the spring can be moved forward then back in place. This is how the Classic Army G36C models are designed so not to worry.




Inside the Classic Army G36C Gearbox:

Taking down the gearbox is probably the most difficult thing to do with any guns. It is actually not necessary to take the gearbox down, but for the purposes of showing the reader, again it will be done here. The CA G36C has many small parts and small spring. This is an inconvenience for many users who like to upgrade and/or service their guns. Fortunately, the design of this Classic Army electric rifle had them in mind.

For this part, two screwdrivers are needed, flathead and philips in order to start things off. Locate the screws that holds the gearbox in and screw them out. The fireselect levers need not to be removed unless the inner grip gearing itself is disired to be removed, this will then need a 1.5mm Allen key. It is removed for the purposes of this article to show the readers the small springs and the rod that is contained in it. This is the spring that rubs against the frame to make the positive "click" noise when the fireselect is rotated. This part easily slides off so make sure that the allen screws that secures the lever is tightly in.

Now, remove the grip plate screws located in the side and in the center as shown in the right image below. Then remove the two screws securing the gearbox at the front of the grip. Look around the wrap surrounding the plate to locate it. Once removed, make sure that the fireselect lever is pointed to safe-mode. With the forward motion, slowly push the gearbox out the grip pushing off on the motor housing itself.

There is a small spring pushing on the dark wrap around the metal that was just unbolted. This spring along with the lever it pushes against are loose and easily lost when taking the gearbox out so be careful.

Using a flathead screwdriver, place its head between the rear block on top of the frame and the black plate in order to separate the two. Be careful since the top plate is made from pressed metal and therefore is sharp, making it possible to cut.

Remove the plastic covers around the rear of the trigger guard as well as the plastic rod going through the entire gearbox that secures a cable. Make sure to do this before taking the screws out. Now, uscrew the screws securing the housing of the gearbox. Remove the outer screws around the edge of the gearbox frame. Make sure that the final screw is on its side and securely held down while it is being removed.

Press the index finger against the piston. Take a flathead screwdriver and place its head in between the two halves of the gearbox to gently separate the top from the bottom. Using the pressure of the finger, hold down the gearbox's main spring keeping the internals from flying out while separating the mechbox. Ease the main spring out of the rear mechbox while carefully still applying pressure so that it is no longer sprung. It is not possible to remove the top half of the gearbox.

Poor greasing has been one of the main complaints with the non-TM automatic electric guns, as well as the lack of gearbox shimming. There is too much grease used on the gears, the piston and the moving parts. The type of grease used is ICS Silicon Gel . Although tacky, it is decent and does not come off. It does, however, leave deposits on the bottom where the motor attaches.

It is good practice to take a note of where the gearbox's little pieces are placed while they are being taken out. This will save time in terms of putting the them back together avoiding consfusions.

With that said, there is a small anti-reversal latch next to the first gear that meshes with the bevel gear. Make sure to position this in the correct orientation during reassembly of the gearbox.

Take note that with the Classic Army G36C gearbox, the power spring and piston are not moulded together. Therefore if the user elects to increase or decrease the power of the rifle, the job would not be difficult. Unlike those of the TM G36C, it is not necessary to replace the piston itself.

For better ROF (rate of fire) it is recommended to upgrade the the motor so it can accomodate a higher tension spring. The Systema Motor Short Type Super Torque Up is a must to have for those seeking a boost for their G36C handguns.



As mentioned above the Classic Army G36C is a shorter variation of two guns. They are: Cons for the G36C airsoft gun:

The loose front grip for the production models. Also, the fire selector swtich should be made smoother when clicking it to different positions. The single action point is hard to find. Finally, the Classic Army G36C magazine is a tight fit and therefore needs to be pushed in hard in order for the mag catch to secure in place.

Conclusion:

The look of the AEG is greatly replicated. Its weight and feel is resonably close to those of the original G36Airsoft Electric AEGs. It is also compatible with TM parts. The internals are good improvements over the TM equivalent especially the metal bushings and the reinforced parts. The Classic Army G36C gearbox is well made. It is safe to say that the Classic Army model of the G36C can be chosen over the TM's model.

This airsoft gun is not to be misrepresented as a real firearm or gun that is manufactured by Heckler & Koch and is merely an airsoft gun that fires 6mm pellets. The manufacturer of this airsoft gun is Classic Army.

 

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