G&G M14 Airsoft Electric Sniper Rifle BK
- Velocity: 400 FPS (0.2 g BB) / Range 190-210 Feet
- Barrel Length: 25 inches / 66 cm
- Magazine Capacity: 470 Rounds
- Metal Receiver and Barrel
- ABS/Nylon Stock
- Battery and Charger Not Included
- Airsoft Gun Review & Airsoft Upgrade Video Available - Click More Info
- Made in Taiwan
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The G&G M14 boasts an amazing 400 FPS out of the box. As with all G&G guns, the quality is outstanding and definitely worth the price tag. It is hefty and sturdy like the real M14. This model is finished in black, which allows you to blend into the darkness of the night or shadows.
G&G Airsoft AEG Rifle Manual
- Internal Upgrades: Brass Gear Box Bushings, Ball Bearing Spring Guide Rod, 6.035mm Precision Inner Barrel, 520 mm Barrel Length, Metal Gear Box, Steel Gears)
All G&G AEG airsoft rifles are pre-upgraded with precision inner barrel, ONLY USE high precision BBs. Failure to do so will cause jam and possible internal damage resulting in permanent damage and will VOID warranty.
Airsoft Reviews : G&G M14
BIG BRASS BOMB: G&G’s M14 in Practical Application
By Steve Diedesch
Shortly after the Second World War, the United States saw immediate need for a fully-automatic, infantry-manageable rifle, in order to compete with the foreign models on the market. A few years’ research, and a thorough butchering of the action of a standard M1 Garand gas-operated infantry rifle later, they’d designed a ghastly potent assault weapon capable of firing its entire twenty round .308 magazine with one pull of the trigger. The G&G M14 was born. It was a true beast of a weapon for its day, and serves as an almost frightening contrast to the comparatively puny modern rifles on the world market even now.
Technically, the M14 was never a true assault rifle. By definition, an assault rifle is a rifle or carbine designed to be operated at a high rate of sustained semi - or full - automatic fire against multiple enemy targets, but the key factor in defining a true assault weapon is the presence of a stock that is in-line with the barrel and action of the weapon, and thus, capable of directing the recoil directly backwards. The idea is not to make the weapon more comfortable to fire, but rather, to keep the muzzle from coming upward and pulling the shooter away from his second, third, fourth, or thirtieth subsequent shot fired in quick succession…
While the The G&G M14 stock lies both slightly below plane and out – of - parallel with its barrel and action, most still consider it one of the first modern assault weapons, right along-side the German STG44 “Sturmgewehr” and the original Automat Kalashnikov 47 rifle. Enough with the technicalities and garbage, now let’s butcher a toy one.
Out of the Box Of G&G M14 :
With the recent release of M14-series weapons flooding the airsoft market, buyers all over seem to have one version or another. There are high-grade all-metal models with wooden stocks, right down to all-plastic springers that are just slightly off-scale, but the first of all to come to the market was Guay Guay Trading (G&G) Co.’s
version of the classic. Many consider this a bad move for The G&G M14
, since many also believe that this product was rushed into the market without proper time for testing and fail-checking all of the components. As a result, there were quite a few “issues”, as one might say, with the first few batches of guns released.
Now, let’s be entirely honest. It’s a very, very cool gun. One of the coolest I’ve had the privilege of screwing around with. The G&G M14
comes with a full-sized poster and component guide, in a nice, heavy paper. It’s a beautiful addition to the wall in your basement, and probably worth a few bucks on its own. The packaging itself is asturdy cardboard box filled with foam, instead of the foam-bottom, cardboard-top that seems to be everyone else’s weapon of choice in shipping. Now, since I’m the kind of guy who gets so busy playing with the packing peanuts that I forget about the package they’ve been protecting; I had to be reminded that there was a gun inside this box.Taking the thing out, I immediately fell in love, regardless of the fact that this gun belonged to my father. The rifle is an almost perfect replica of the real-steel M14, right down to the balance, the feel of the safety and the trigger mechanism, the select-fire knob and themagazine action, and the charging lever on the side pulls and slides in a way that could only be described as “heavy like a truck”. Immediately, I did something that destroyed the bolt on an ICS
MP5 of mine a year ago: I gave the bolt a good yank and let it slam into the front of the receiver. Other than the expected metallic clack, pleasingly similar to the real-steel M14, there was nothing. Don‘t get me wrong; this is a good thing. The only thing I‘ve ever seen accompany this procedure is a tiny piece of plastic or metal flying across the basement or pavilion where I‘m loading my gun at; not having this happen was definitely nothing to complain about. The stock is that real heavy-duty nylon that real gunstocks are made of, so I’d trust it to take a fall or two. The iron-sights are admittedly a bit flimsy, but this was the least of my concerns, since one of the first things I did was install a ‘scope-mount and 30mm red/green dot zeropower scope.’ The sling lugs were fairly heavy-duty in appearance, and refused to budge when I tried to remove them. So, the thing’s built to last, at least from the outside.
It’s a fantastically fun thing to hold, to look at, and to screw around with.
The magazine loads just like any other hi-cap magazine and winds fairly easily. G&G’s
factory 470-round hi-cap is a bit painful to wind, since the spring’s a little bit stiffer than most other hi-cap springs, and the gear’s a bit narrower, but otherwise, there are no real complaints I can make. To lock and load, basically you just rock the magazine into the receiver, ala - AK47, push the safety forward with the back of your trigger finger, and give the bolt a good tug to intimidate everyone else. From the outside, it appears to be a perfectly well-designed weapon.
However, ours has yet to prove itself in combat, having suffered severe hop-up function issues during our at-home checks, and having a critical gearbox failure one half-hour into its first game, a magazine failure, and several hop-up jams using precision .25 ammo with the hop-up turned off.
So, needless to say, all aesthetics and ergonomics aside, it’s been one of the least reliable pieces of hardware I’ve ever had the opportunity to fix (that’s counting the MAC11 that can’t spit out an entire magazine without jamming.).
Assault Rifle Autopsy Of G&G M14 :
The whirr of a chattering gear, particularly in the tone and speed that was being produced, indicated that something right in-line with the motor had been totally stripped, which meant either the pinion or thebevel gear.
The only problem here was that we’d just paid to have hardened-steel gears, a silent piston, and an upgraded spring installed from the retailer, and ripping the thing apart voided their warranty. It’s not as though that really mattered, though, because it had just expired a month after the gun was delivered, and the day before the gearbox went south on me.
As with most guns, The G&G M14 only comes with instructions on how to field-strip the gun to clean simple parts, such as the hop-up and the barrel, to clear obstructions, and other simple repairs, but never how to completely disassemble the gun. That, my friends, is what this guide is for.
(WARNING: Disassembling your gun WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY in most cases.)
Now, the first two steps in stripping this gun are popping the trigger unit out and removing the battery.
These are simple enough, as they’re both documented in The G&G M14 instruction manual. But, in case you lost that, basically, you take the battery out of the stock, like any other solid-stock rifle (Photo #1).
This is important because it will not only make the gun easier to work on, but it will keep it from firing when you‘re taking it apart. This, is as much for safety as it is for keeping your gun from damaging itself.
Now, pull downward on the trigger guard HARD to release the mechanism. YOU WILL NOT BREAK THE TRIGGER GUARD, SO DO NOT WORRY ABOUT PULLING TOO HARD. It is important to pull toward the back of the stock, too, because it’s a stiff piece of steel, and will need to flex some to pop free (Photo #2).
Once this piece comes out, set it aside and look at the side of the rifle. There is one specialized body screw holding the gearbox nice and snug inside the rifle on each side (Photo #3).
Now, this thing’s a REAL pain to get out. I made myself a special tool just recently, but here’s how you can do it. Find two metal pins, hex/allen keys, anything that’s stiff and fits snugly into the two holes in the pin. I used two titanium-coated drill bits. Once these are in place, set a flat-blade screwdriver or other lever between them. Hold your two pins in your free hand, to keep them upright, and use your lever like a big wrench.
MAKE SURE TO TWIST COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. THIS IS JUST A NORMAL SCREW WITH A STUPID HEAD.
Don’t lose these screws; if you do, that’ll seriously mess you up later. Now, look at the gas tube underneath the barrel (Photo #4).
Unscrew the cap on the end, and be careful not to lose the spring inside (Photo #5).
Tip that and the metal spacer out, set them with the rest of your stuff, and twist the metal gas-tube lock-in-place whatchamacallit (Looks like a number “8” from the front. You just unscrewed the gas-tube cap from it.) away from the rest of the gas-tube assembly. Pull everything you just disassembled toward the muzzle, so that you can really rip your rifle apart (Photo #6).
The heat-shield assembly pops off, but it’s better to slide it off from the front, because you don’t want to stretch the metal clip holding it in place at the back (Photo #7)
Once this is done, you can slide the entire action and barrel out of the stock (Photo #8).
Next, turn your receiver upside-down and find the huge spring pressing the magazine catch against the front of the gearbox. Press it toward the muzzle, and pull it out, must be careful from letting the spring launch. If you do, someone will almost certainly lose an eye. (Photo #9).
Now, there are two screws holding the barrel assembly against the head of the gearbox. Pull ‘em out with a hex key and gently separate the barrel and gearbox assembly (Photo #10).
Now it’s time to pull the gearbox out of the receiver shell. There are two screws on the right-hand side of the gun, both hex-headed. Take these out and DO NOT LOSE THEM (Photo #11).
Now, flip the receiver over and look at the bolt-release. The release itself is held in by a metal pin, which you will need to knock out with either a metal pin of slightly smaller diameter, a drill bit again, a narrow punch-bit, or a straight hex-key or driver that is SMALLER than the pin. Be sure to keep the release lever from flying off, because there is a tiny spring beneath it that you do NOT want to lose.
Beneath this lever is another screw like on the other side. Remove it and set it aside.
Now you can separate the receiver shell from the gearbox itself (Photo #12).
In order to remove the motor, you have a carriage unit reminiscent of the AK47’s gearbox. There are two screws on each side of the stamped steel device holding the motor carriage against the gearbox. Feel free to remove the plastic wrap around the motor if you’d like. It won’t hurt anything except the warranty that you’ve already voided (Photo #13).
The gearbox itself is a great deal less complicated than it might seem. It comes apart like any other gearbox, only it’s been assembled using hex-screws instead of Phillips screws. Don’t let the high-tech appearance fool you. It’s a simple enough gearbox with a good amount of external linkage. It has to be; the trigger isn’t even a part of the gearbox.
You might note that the gun has a very tough-looking gearbox shell, with a heavier connection to the head than a V2 box. This makes the M14 more than ideal for sniper-rifle springs and other high-impact modifications. This one will be the recipient of a 110% variable-pitch spring, an overbore cylinder, silent piston kit, polycarbon/titanium piston, SystemA high-speed gears, ball bearings for both the gears and the spring shims, and eventually a tight-bore barrel.
Steve is a new member to U.S.A.S.O.C. His hobbies include airsoft (playing and tech sides), cars, music, etc. He is known for his expertise on the technical aspect of airsoft so always look for some kind of tips from him in future articles.
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This airsoft gun is not to be misrepresented as a real firearm or gun that is manufactured by Springfield Armory and is merely an airsoft gun that fires 6mm pellets. The manufacturer of this airsoft gun is G&G.