The G&G M14 has metal with ABS plastic/nylon receiver and stock. It also sports a 470-round hi-cap magazine for ample cover fire for your teammates to advance or retreat. Solid and heavy to hold. Comes with tactical sling attachments for optional 3-point sling. The charging handle is functional and emits a satisfying "clunk" when released. Highly versatile for most mil-sims or collections.

G&G Airsoft AEG Rifle Manual
- Internal Upgrades: Brass Gear Box Bushings, Ball Bearing Spring Guide Rod, 6.035mm Precision Inner Barrel, 520 mm Barrel Length, Metal Gear Box, Steel Gears)

- All G&G AEG airsoft rifles are pre-upgraded with precision inner barrel, ONLY USE high precision BBs. Failure to do so will cause jam and possible internal damage resulting in permanent damage and will VOID warranty.

Airsoft Reviews : G&G M14

Out of the Box Of G&G M14 :

Assault Rifle Autopsy Of G&G M14 :

The whirr of a chattering gear, particularly in the tone and speed that was being produced, indicated that something right in-line with the motor had been totally stripped, which meant either the pinion or thebevel gear.

The only problem here was that we’d just paid to have hardened-steel gears, a silent piston, and an upgraded spring installed from the retailer, and ripping the thing apart voided their warranty. It’s not as though that really mattered, though, because it had just expired a month after the gun was delivered, and the day before the gearbox went south on me.

As with most guns, The G&G M14 only comes with instructions on how to field-strip the gun to clean simple parts, such as the hop-up and the barrel, to clear obstructions, and other simple repairs, but never how to completely disassemble the gun. That, my friends, is what this guide is for.

(WARNING: Disassembling your gun WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY in most cases.)

Now, the first two steps in stripping this gun are popping the trigger unit out and removing the battery.

These are simple enough, as they’re both documented in The G&G M14 instruction manual. But, in case you lost that, basically, you take the battery out of the stock, like any other solid-stock rifle (Photo #1).

This is important because it will not only make the gun easier to work on, but it will keep it from firing when you‘re taking it apart. This, is as much for safety as it is for keeping your gun from damaging itself.

Now, pull downward on the trigger guard HARD to release the mechanism. YOU WILL NOT BREAK THE TRIGGER GUARD, SO DO NOT WORRY ABOUT PULLING TOO HARD. It is important to pull toward the back of the stock, too, because it’s a stiff piece of steel, and will need to flex some to pop free (Photo #2).

Once this piece comes out, set it aside and look at the side of the rifle. There is one specialized body screw holding the gearbox nice and snug inside the rifle on each side (Photo #3).

Now, this thing’s a REAL pain to get out. I made myself a special tool just recently, but here’s how you can do it. Find two metal pins, hex/allen keys, anything that’s stiff and fits snugly into the two holes in the pin. I used two titanium-coated drill bits. Once these are in place, set a flat-blade screwdriver or other lever between them. Hold your two pins in your free hand, to keep them upright, and use your lever like a big wrench.

MAKE SURE TO TWIST COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. THIS IS JUST A NORMAL SCREW WITH A STUPID HEAD.

Don’t lose these screws; if you do, that’ll seriously mess you up later. Now, look at the gas tube underneath the barrel (Photo #4).


Unscrew the cap on the end, and be careful not to lose the spring inside (Photo #5).

Tip that and the metal spacer out, set them with the rest of your stuff, and twist the metal gas-tube lock-in-place whatchamacallit (Looks like a number “8” from the front. You just unscrewed the gas-tube cap from it.) away from the rest of the gas-tube assembly. Pull everything you just disassembled toward the muzzle, so that you can really rip your rifle apart (Photo #6).

The heat-shield assembly pops off, but it’s better to slide it off from the front, because you don’t want to stretch the metal clip holding it in place at the back (Photo #7)

Once this is done, you can slide the entire action and barrel out of the stock (Photo #8).

Next, turn your receiver upside-down and find the huge spring pressing the magazine catch against the front of the gearbox. Press it toward the muzzle, and pull it out, must be careful from letting the spring launch. If you do, someone will almost certainly lose an eye. (Photo #9).

Now, there are two screws holding the barrel assembly against the head of the gearbox. Pull ‘em out with a hex key and gently separate the barrel and gearbox assembly (Photo #10).

Now it’s time to pull the gearbox out of the receiver shell. There are two screws on the right-hand side of the gun, both hex-headed. Take these out and DO NOT LOSE THEM (Photo #11).

Now, flip the receiver over and look at the bolt-release. The release itself is held in by a metal pin, which you will need to knock out with either a metal pin of slightly smaller diameter, a drill bit again, a narrow punch-bit, or a straight hex-key or driver that is SMALLER than the pin. Be sure to keep the release lever from flying off, because there is a tiny spring beneath it that you do NOT want to lose.

Beneath this lever is another screw like on the other side. Remove it and set it aside.

Now you can separate the receiver shell from the gearbox itself (Photo #12).

In order to remove the motor, you have a carriage unit reminiscent of the AK47’s gearbox. There are two screws on each side of the stamped steel device holding the motor carriage against the gearbox. Feel free to remove the plastic wrap around the motor if you’d like. It won’t hurt anything except the warranty that you’ve already voided (Photo #13).

The gearbox itself is a great deal less complicated than it might seem. It comes apart like any other gearbox, only it’s been assembled using hex-screws instead of Phillips screws. Don’t let the high-tech appearance fool you. It’s a simple enough gearbox with a good amount of external linkage. It has to be; the trigger isn’t even a part of the gearbox.

You might note that the gun has a very tough-looking gearbox shell, with a heavier connection to the head than a V2 box. This makes the M14 more than ideal for sniper-rifle springs and other high-impact modifications. This one will be the recipient of a 110% variable-pitch spring, an overbore cylinder, silent piston kit, polycarbon/titanium piston, SystemA high-speed gears, ball bearings for both the gears and the spring shims, and eventually a tight-bore barrel.

Steve is a new member to U.S.A.S.O.C. His hobbies include airsoft (playing and tech sides), cars, music, etc. He is known for his expertise on the technical aspect of airsoft so always look for some kind of tips from him in future articles.